Posts Tagged ‘Draft’

Greetings Fellow Board Gamers!

The featured game for the last two weeks is a game from one of my favorite publishers. We played Bunny Kingdom from IELLO.

Bunny Kingdom on Board Game Geek – here.

* Note – This is not a ‘How to Play’ or tutorial type article. This is a review of the game components and brief review of game play.

Box Art.png

Play as Rabbit Lords conquering a new world on behalf of the Bunny King.

Take control of vast Territories across the New World, build Cities, and farm Resources to make your Fiefs prosper and harvest precious Golden Carrots. Don’t forget to satisfy the King by accomplishing missions on behalf of his Majesty.

Each choice can bring you closer to victory, but only one of you will be named “Big Ears” by the Bunny King…

Will you be worthy?

This game is for two to four players, but plays differently for two players than it does for three or four players. We did not play this with two players. We played with three and four players.

Rules

The rulebook is very intimidating. The first time I opened it, I thought I was looking at a technical manual of some kind. I had to set up the game and play against myself in order to work through how to play the game, and even then, I still had things wrong. We were constructing things after drafting our two cards and the construction part of the round happens after all the drafting for the round is complete. I only just now realized this. We also played the Trading Post incorrectly. We were counting it as all three resources instead of just one. If the rulebook was put together in a more ‘user-friendly’ fashion, I may not have made those errors. The rulebook could definitely be simplified and organized a bit better.

Components

Aside from this being a drafting game (which I’m a huge fan of), the components are probably the biggest draw for me.

I love when a game has a decent insert built into the box. The cards in the picture are not sleeved, but you can fit all the cards in the box – with sleeves. There is plenty of space to put the components in the box without them being crammed in or packed in too tightly.

Insert.png

The board is very colorful and also sturdy. I definitely don’t like having a flimsy board for my board games. I love the land layout and all the artwork on it. What I dislike is that the score tracker is attached to the game part of the board. I would much rather these be two separate pieces. Having the score tracker separated would cut down on accidental bumps of the score bunnies and also make it easier for players on the tracker’s side of the table to see the actual board.

Board

The deck is HUGE! I think the actual number of cards is 182 if I read the contents list right… I didn’t count them. This game has enough math involved. The artwork is super cute and each card is easy to read. The coordinates and any pertinent information is in the top left corner, making it very easy to see what you have in your hand at a glance. I also like that each different type of land is color coded on the coordinates of the cards, making it much easier to locate that particular plot on the map while in the midst of drafting. I do not like how flimsy the cards feel. I’m constantly scared I’m going to bend them. The cards are standard size, so you can use any standard size sleeve, but be sure you use all of the same color sleeves or clear sleeves.

Deck.png

The player aid cards are… okay. They should have put a turn reference on them too. We never used the multiplication table on the back, because we always forgot about it. Not really handy when you forget it’s there.

Player Aid Cards.png

The tokens are the perfect size for the corner of a map square. They have a concave to accommodate a bunny on the same square or the corner of a city. They’re also very thick, which makes them much easier to spot on the map during clean up. Being easier to spot means they’ll be less likely to be forgotten or left behind when you’ve packed up the game. Thin tokens or thin cardboard coins are usually lost very easily.

The cities are made of plastic and they’re actually very detailed. Their towers are shaped like carrots, so that makes them super cute too. They feel sturdy, but I’m paranoid that I’m going to break a tower off at some point. If you like to paint your components, these would be absolutely adorable all painted up.

City Tokens

I saved the bunnies for last. These are so cute and adorable, but they are vicious as well! Don’t let those ears fool you – they’re sturdier than you think. I was leaning over the table to help a group of players with their game of Bunny Kingdom, and I was repositioning my hands when I put my hand down onto a cluster of these devils (all standing upright and ears at the ready!). Let me tell you… The words that I didn’t say are a testament to my willpower. I didn’t break a single ear either, but I probably would have been bleeding if I’d have stepped on them instead landing a hand. I’ve stepped on Lego blocks and even D4’s… but these adorable evil bunnies with their needle-ears… Don’t leave them laying about! You could end up with one sticking out of your foot!

Bunny Tokens

Bunny vs Foot

Setup & Clean Up

Setting up the board isn’t super complicated. You need to put a single tower city on each of the squares that has the picture of a city in it. Each player chooses one of the bunny colors and takes one from their stash, placing it on the giant score tracker. Then you shuffle the enormous deck of cards (which is even more difficult to shuffle if it’s sleeved), and deal each player the correct amount of cards, based on the number of players. That’s about all there is to setup, it just takes a little time to shuffle the massive deck.

Clean up is not as quick. There are buildings, bunnies, and tokens – everywhere… It’s best to have the players help with the clean up to make it go quicker. It’s not difficult, it just takes some time.

Game Play

The game play is not overly complicated. You have your hand of cards and you pick two of them, then pass the remaining cards to the player next to you. You reveal the two cards you selected and place your bunnies on the coordinates and collect your tokens and cities. Then you take the hand that the player sitting next to you passes to you, and you draft two more cards, reveal them, place bunnies and collect your tokens and cities. The direction you pass your hand is determined by the round. Round 1 and 3 are passed to the left and round 2 and 4 are passed to the right.

After all the cards are drafted, you get to build your cities and place your tokens on the map. There isn’t an initiative except for Camps, which causes a little bit of chaos during the game and even leads to some bumped score tracking bunnies. I would advise play groups to form an initiative of some sort, just for the construction part (that doesn’t apply to Camps since they have their own, of course), to help keep the chaos at a minimum.

After players have constructed what they want to build, you score the round – called Harvesting. I will not go into detail about that here. If you need help with scoring, you can email me or message me on Facebook and I’ll help the best I can.

After the round has been scored, you move into the next round and do exactly what you did in the previous round. The only real differences between the rounds are the direction the hands are passed during drafting, the presence each player has on the board, and how many points you score. You should be scoring more points each round if you’re drafting cards that will benefit your fiefs. You will never see a set of coordinates more than once, so if you see coordinates you need, better take them!

At the end of the fourth round, you harvest as normal, but instead of going into a fifth round, you score all Parchment cards you collected. Again, I won’t go into detail about how to score those here. The basics are, you score the number of points the Treasure cards give you and you see if you completed any of the other Parchment cards to score their Golden Carrots (points).

When all the crazy math calculations are completed and score bunnies are adjusted, the player with the most Golden Carrots is the winner.

Conclusion

This game was a blast to play, until the Parchment card scoring at the end of the game. Once we hit that particular portion of the game, I saw Richard Garfield’s style in all its complicated glory. Even though I shouldn’t have been surprised (since he is one of the creators of Magic: The Gathering), I guess I expected the game to be a game and not a multiplication teaching tool for pre-teens and adults. My players got up from the table and left me alone to calculate the totals on all the players’ Parchment cards. That’s NOT fun at all. We tried to take the non-Treasure Parchment cards out and deal out two less cards to the players, and that worked great. But it felt like we needed a few extra cards. We tried to select a few Parchment cards that were not super crazy to deal with, and it didn’t work as well. We filled up every single plot on the board. If I were to ever play this again, I would take out all the non-Treasure Parchment cards and deal two less cards to each player – and I would never feel guilty for doing it. I’d rather go score a dozen games of Fantasy Realms, alone in the dark, than score a regular game of Bunny Kingdom – ever – again.

But aside from the atrocious scoring, it was a fun drafting game with a very cute theme. This game is most definitely not for younger gamers, which is appropriately displayed on the box (14+). Even though it’s simple enough to play, the multiplying is overwhelming for anyone under 14 or anyone with a short attention span.

And the play time on the box is a lie, just like the cake. This game is not a minimum or average of 45 minutes. We played our shortest game at about an hour and fifteen minutes, which was the same game where we took the non-Treasure Parchment cards out of the deck. The rest of the games were roughly an hour and a half.

What the Players Said

Paul – I don’t like the Parchment cards, but I do like the bunnies. They are really cute.

Katie – I love the board, and the art, and all the pieces – especially the pokey bunnies. The game is really fun and really cute. It’s really easy to play too, until you get to the end of the game and have to score the Parchment cards.

John H. – Drafting is a lot of fun. There’s too much math, but it’s an acceptable game.

Olivia W. – The math wasn’t a huge problem for me, but the Parchment cards are definitely overwhelming. The Treasure Parchment cards are fine though. The art is awesome all over the game!

Buy or Bye?
Bye – Maybe?

So, I don’t think I’d actually buy this game for myself unless it was super discounted or if someone gifted it to me, I would totally take it. I would make my own house rules for it and adjust it to play better for my local players.

Have strategies or tips for this game? Leave them in a comment!
Have cool accessories or custom pieces? Show them off!
Thanks for reading and be sure to like, follow, and subscribe for more Dice Masters, HeroClix, and Board Game related content!

Board out and game on!

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Greetings Fellow Board Gamers!

 

The featured game for this week is easily one of my favorite games. We played 7 Wonders from Repos Production and Asmodee.

7 Wonders on Board Game Geek – here.

* Note – This is not a ‘How to Play’ or tutorial type article. This is a review of the game components and brief review of game play.

7 Wonders Stock Photo

I have seen the hanging gardens, and the Colossus of the Helios, the great man-made mountains of the lofty Pyramids, and the gigantic tomb of Mausolus; but when I saw the sacred house of Artemis that towers to the clouds, the others were placed in the shade.
–Antipater of Sidon, 140 BC

Two millennia ago, great cities were vying to dominate the eastern Mediterranean. Just outside of Cairo lay massive, enduring feats of engineering: the Pyramids and Great Sphinx of Giza. At Halikarnassós a Persian king erected his own palatial tomb, the Mausoleum, and deep in the Persian Empire’s deserts flourished the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Soon Greece began to construct giant temples and statues in cities from Éphesos to Olympía to Alexandria, where the Ptolemies built a towering lighthouse that shone out across the sea.

In 7 Wonders, a card game for two to seven players, you guide an ancient city from its first foundations to its greatest achievements. Your goal is to surpass your neighbors by developing better technologies, creating a richer culture, conquering in war, and constructing magnificent architectural marvels. Across three Ages you will expand and advance your city, and at the end of each Age you will take up arms against your opponents. The player with the most victory points wins.

Designed by Antoine Bauza, 7 Wonders is one of the most award-winning board games of all time. It has received the 2011 Kennerspiel des Jahres and Deutscher Spielpreis, the Dice Tower awards for 2010 Best Game of the Year and Best Game Artwork, and the 2011 Golden Geek Award from Board Game Geek, among numerous others.

7 Wonders is a drafting game, where you try to draft cards that help give your civilization the edge over your opponents. Some players try to balance their structures between the different types while others might attempt to become a military powerhouse or a scientific hub. Others just try to acquire massive amounts of money by drafting as many resources as possible, so their neighbors are forced to buy any materials they need from them.

At the end of the day, it’s all about having the most victory points, regardless of the method you use to acquire them. This game is for two to seven people, but it plays best with three or more. The two player version is not covered in this review because it plays a little different.

Rules

The rulebook is very thorough and covers everything you need to know. I can’t think of anything that needs to be added or changed in the rulebook. I would definitely recommend that you read over it before you begin a game. Familiarize yourself with everything that’s in the rulebook because it will help the game flow smoother. You will likely need to refer back to the rules for your first few games.

There is a key on the back of the rulebook that helps explain the various symbols on the cards. There is also an additional insert that has a key. The keys are invaluable and usually get passed around the table throughout the game.

Components

There are several different components to 7 Wonders. One of the big ones, in size and relevance, is your Wonder!

WondersWonder Cards

In 7 Wonders, the goal is achieve more victory points than anyone else. Wonders can help you do that, depending on the Wonder you get. Wonders are supposed to be randomized at the beginning of the game with the corresponding Wonders cards. You shuffle the seven cards and deal one to each person and that’s the Wonder they get for the game. Each Wonder has two sides, Side A and Side B. Side A is simpler and each Wonder has victory points on this side. Side B has more complex abilities and not all the Wonders have victory points on this side. The rules recommend starting on Side A, but players can generally choose their starting side. The Wonders are made of thick cardboard and will likely hold up well over time with standard use.

Decks

Next, you’ve got three decks with various types of cards. Each deck represent a different ‘Age’ of development. Each deck has a different color back with the Age in Roman numerals as well as a directional reminder for which way each deck should be passed during the draft. There are ten Guild cards that can be added to the Age III deck. You won’t have all ten at once though. The number of players will determine how many Guilds you add to the Age III deck. The Guild cards are randomly selected and kept secret so you won’t know what Guilds are in the Age III deck until you get to that Age. This adds another level of variety to game play and makes each game a little different than the last.

7 Wonders Sleeves

This game is a card game that requires lots of shuffling and handling of the cards. I would absolutely recommend using sleeves to protect the cards. That was the first thing I did before playing my copy – sleeved all the cards! The cards are not standard size, which means the sleeves from the previous articles are not going to fit the cards in 7 Wonder. Fear not! I can direct you to the correct size! Ultra Pro makes sleeves that fit nicely, and you can find them, HERE. The dimensions are 65 mm x 100 mm. You’ll need a minimum of 148 sleeves for all three of the decks. If you want to sleeve the Wonder cards, you’ll need seven more, which would come out to four of those Ultra Pro packs. That leaves you with plenty of extras to replace any sleeves that get damaged or start to show wear. But if you don’t sleeve the Wonder cards, you’ll only need three packs of sleeves.

Conflict Tokens

Conflict tokens are given to players at the end of each Age, depending on how their resolution of military conflicts went. Losing to a neighboring city will give you a -1 token in any Age. If you’re the victor in Age I, you get the token with one victory point for each neighbor you defeat. In Age II, the victor gets the token with three victory points for each defeated neighbor. In Age III, the victor gets the token with five victory points for each defeated neighbor. In a single game, if you defeat both neighbors at the end of each Age, you would end up with 18 victory points: two points from Age I, six points from Age II, and ten points from Age III.

Coins

What game would be complete without small cardboard coins? I’ve been wanting to upgrade to metal coins, but the cardboard ones have actually held up rather well for how much they’ve been used. Same goes for the conflict tokens, but those are handled much less than the coins.

Score Sheet

You also get a small score pad, which I go into detail more below. Each column is for a single player and all the sections that can earn points are in their own row. It’s easiest to score each row first because you can have each player count up their score for that particular row and you only need to record it and then tally the total at the end. There are lots of sheets on the score pad, but if you play enough, you will run out. There are apps available for tablets and smart phones which can replace the score pad.

Setup & Clean Up

Setup can take a little time depending on how many people are playing. Each deck has certain cards that need to be removed or added, which is indicated by a tiny #+ at the bottom of the card. So a card with 4+ means you should add those cards to their respective decks for games with four or more players, and remove them for games with three players.

After you’ve got your decks ready, you randomly assign a Wonder to each player. The corresponding Wonders deck helps with this. Each player also gets three single coins to start with.

You then shuffle the first deck and deal seven cards to each player. This is repeated for each age, but only after you finish an age.

Clean up can take some time as well as you collect all the coins, conflict tokens, sort cards by age, and remove or add cards to the Age decks.

Game Play

The overall game play isn’t complicated. The complexity comes in when you start drafting and you have to be sure you aren’t drafting a duplicate of a card you’ve already built, or that you have enough materials or money to buy materials, or that you don’t have a previous Age structure that lets you build something for free, and so on. The game itself is easy enough to understand, it’s the choices of cards in your hands and the cards on the table that make it more difficult to play. That’s definitely not a bad thing! It makes for an engaging game.

You start with seven cards in your hand for each Age. The cards should correspond with the current Age, so you won’t be drafting Age I cards in Age II. You only have one material that you can use from your Wonder and two neighbors to buy other materials from at the start of Age I.

In Age I, you want to draft cards that help you gain access to various types of materials so you can build structures in the other Ages without using up all your money. When you begin the draft in Age I, you will select a single card from your hand to build, then pass the remaining cards to the player on your left. The player on your right will be passing their remaining cards to you after they have made their selection. Everyone reveals the structure they’re constructing and allocates the appropriate about of money, if necessary, to neighbors or the bank. Then each player picks up the new hand of cards they were passed, which should be six cards total from the player on their right. Each player selects a new card to build, then passes the remaining five cards to the player on their left, just like before. Everyone reveals their new card and allocates the appropriate amount of money, if necessary, to neighbors or the bank. This cycle continues until each player has two cards in their hand. When the players have only two cards left, they will select one as their draft pick, and then discard the last card. Everyone reveals their structure like before, but now there are no more Age I cards to pass. This is the end of the Age and also where military conflicts happen.

At the end of each Age, you go into military conflicts with both of your neighbors. Each player counts the number of shield symbols they have on their red cards (if any) and/or on their Wonder. Mostly, players will only have shields on their red cards if they built those type of structures. You need more shield symbols than a neighbor to defeat them and gain victory points. If you tie for shield symbols, nothing happens. If you have less shield symbols, then you get a negative conflict token which causes you the lose victory points. You can only get two -1 conflict tokens in a single Age, because you only have two neighbors. If you decide to be a peaceful civilization, you won’t be penalized that much. But your military neighbors could rack up some points off of you!

Age II begins just like Age I, with each player looking over their hand of seven cards from the Age II deck. Each player chooses a card, passing the remain cards to their neighbor. This time, instead of passing cards to the left, you pass them to the right. There are directional reminders on the back of the cards to help players remember which way they should pass cards. Aside from that one difference, game play is the same in Age II as Age I. There are a few differences within the cards, like fewer resources and more structures, but the concept is similar – draft cards that further your goals! There will likely be more commerce happening in this Age than in Age I, because players will end up realizing that they need more materials than before. The game continues just like in Age I, until there are only two cards in each player’s hand. Players will draft one of those cards and discard the remaining card, just like before. After the drafting for Age II is complete, there is another military conflict, which happens just like the one in Age I. The only difference is that victors of conflicts in Age II earn a higher point victory token, worth three points instead of one point.

After the Age II military conflicts are resolved, Age III begins – just like the previous Ages. Each player starts with their seven cards, and drafts one card. Just like in Age I, players pass the remaining cards to the left. In Age III, players will notice that there are a serious lack of resource cards. In this Age, you’re polishing your civilization with grand structures and Guilds. The start up days are done and if you didn’t draft enough resource cards in Age I or Age II, you’re going to have a difficult time building anything in Age III. Sure, you can buy all your materials, if you have the money for it. If not, you’ll be discarding cards for three coins each turn. Be sure to prepare your civilization for Age III by drafting plenty of resources and other inexpensive structures that will allow you to build other structures for free. Age III ends the same way Age I and Age II did, with a military conflict. The victors of these conflicts will get a conflict token worth five points, but those that fall beneath their military might will still only receive a single -1 token. Military can rack up some points for you, but it won’t devastate those that don’t go for the military cards.

Once the military conflicts are resolved for Age III, the point tallying begins! I used to be intimidated by this final stage of the game, but after playing so many times, it’s almost second nature now. I want to mention that there are companion apps out there that help with this stage and if you play with five or more folks on a regular basis, it’s worth having.

Score Sheet

I start by announcing what I want everyone to add up first, which is military. It’s easy enough for each player to count their conflict tokens, but some players get confused and think they’re supposed to add the shields. Make sure everyone understands that these points are only on the conflict tokens and that some players could have zero or even negative points here.

Military is the only score section that I’ve seen a negative number in. Many of the other sections could have zero if the player doesn’t have a card that grants them victory points in that color. For example, many yellow cards give you benefits during the game, but they don’t grant you victory points at the end.

After the military points, I have everyone add up their points for their coins. For every three coins, a player will earn one victory point. It’s easiest for players if they exchange their singles for the coins with the three on them, then count how many of those they have.

After scoring the coins, I tell each player to check their Wonder for victory points. They only receive victory points if they built their Wonder into stages that grant victory points. You don’t get victory points for your Wonder unless it says you do on the Wonder.

After the Wonder, I tell everyone to look at their Civilian cards, which are the blue cards. These cards grant lots of victory points and it’s no uncommon to see 30 or more victory points from one player if they drafted lots of these.

After Civilian structures, we move onto the Commercial structures, which are yellow. Not all of these structures grant victory points. Most of them only grant bonuses or abilities during the game and not during the scoring part. There are some though that grant victory points, so always double check when adding these up.

After Commercial structures are the Guilds, which are purple. These are somewhat more complex at times because many of them look at what your neighbors have and not what you have. For example, the Strategists Guild looks at the individual -1 conflict tokens that your neighbors have and grants you one victory point for each one. If you’re not a military powerhouse, this is not going to benefit you at all. The only benefit to drafting and building this structure is to keep your military neighbor from drafting it and building it.

After the Guild scoring, comes the Scientific structures. This is the most confusing part of the entire scoring process, and the sole reason I suggest getting the app. The Scientific structures grant you additional bonuses for drafting multiples of each symbol, as well as a bonus for having a set of all three symbols – or two sets if you’re that fortunate. The easiest way to remember the scoring calculations is that each group of the same symbols will net you that many points, squared. For example, if I have three of the cog symbols, I get nine victory points. If I have four of them, I get sixteen victory points. But don’t forget to add victory points in for each set of three different symbols! If you have a full set of the three different scientific symbols, that’s seven points in addition to the points for multiple symbols. Page 6 of the rulebook has plenty of examples and explanation.

Once you’ve finished writing down all the scores for each section, you add each column up for that player’s total points. The player with the most points is the winner!

Conclusion

This is a fantastic game and a great way to introduce players to the concept of drafting. I play collectible games that have draft formats and this game is a great way to introduce newer players to drafts. Aside from that, I love how different the game plays each time you play. Sure, there are similarities, but I’ve never ended a game with the same card combination. I like games that have a high amount of replay. The different Wonders add variety as well. I love to draft military, but if I have the Babylon Wonder, I’m going to change my strategy to Science. And while the Science cards can be confusing to some folks, the rulebook thoroughly explains how to score it. *Science!*

I recommend using the random method outlined in the rulebook to determine which Wonder each player gets. If you let players choose their own, it could lead to some bickering over particular Wonders. It also forces players to change up their strategy and try something new. If we play multiple games in a night, I try to make sure each player gets a different Wonder each game.

What the Players Said

Paul – I like the drafting play style and I really like the game overall. I can’t think of anything I don’t like about it.

Katie – I’ve only played twice and I was really confused at first because the first time you play, there is a really steep learning curve. There is a lot to remember, but it looks like a lot of fun the more you play it. I absolutely love the art on the cards.

Ryan – If you’re a regular board gamer, this game needs to be in your inventory. The only drawback is the math at the end, unless you use an app. Get the app.

John H. – Eh.
(I couldn’t get anything else out of him.)

Buy or Bye?
Buy!

My game collection would be seriously lacking without this game. While it takes some setup and explanation, once players get an idea of what’s going on, it’s lots of fun and has a high amount of replay. I try to warn new players that there is definitely a steep learning curve and you’re not likely to do very well on your first play through. Play the game several times to give it a fair shake!

Have strategies or tips for this game? Leave them in a comment!
Have cool accessories or custom pieces? Show them off!
Thanks for reading and be sure to like, follow, and subscribe for more Dice Masters, HeroClix, and Board Game related content!

Board out and game on!

Greetings Fellow Dice Fans!

 

My FLGS in Dyersburg, Tennessee was lucky enough to be chosen to host a WKO for the Fall 2017 season. It was a day full of fun with friends from out of town and I hope we have an opportunity to host another in the future. We drafted from the Marvel X-Men First Class set. We had a total of nine players, four rounds, and a top cut of four. I have featured matches on my YouTube channel, here.

Oops! Mistakes Happen

I was asked a ruling question in round one, regarding Xaviers School: Unique Curriculum, which says, Draw dice from your bag until you draw an [X-Men Affiliation] character die or your bag is empty. Prep 1 of the drawn dice, and add the rest to your Used Pile.” The question was, ‘can I refill my bag with dice in my Used Pile until I draw an X-Men character die?’ I said yes, because somehow, my eyes and brain didn’t see or register the text on the card that said “or your bag is empty”. That was totally a bad call on my part and I take full responsibility for that poor ruling. The mistake was caught in round two and I apologized to the players and the TO for my error. If you watch the featured match for round one and see an error in regards to that card, that’s what happened.

Team Lists

Click the player’s name below to view their team list on RetroBox.

Bailee R.
Jared W.
Ryan K.
Travis F.
Kat F.
Craig H.
Craig R.
Craig T.
Rusty L.

Round One – Rusty L.

Rusty is for the most part a local. He lives out of town, but makes it in when he can for drafts or other important events. He’s there enough that we consider him a local. Anytime Rusty and I play, we have lots of fun and this time was no different. My entire team was built using X-Men and Villain character dice. Rusty had two characters that would completely shut down my team and I didn’t realize it until it was too late. I immediately noticed his Sentinel, so I went for several X-Men early game, as well as Emma Frost to help my defend against his Boom Boom. I struggled throughout this entire game to create a field presence, but it was all in vain. Emma Frost was a double edged sword in this match. I was preventing one damage from Boom Boom, but she was leaving me completely vulnerable to Onslaught. I put up the best fight I could, but I couldn’t break through his defenses and he defeated me.

Record: 0-1-0

Round Two – Craig R.

Craig R. and I had the opportunity to play against each other, not once – but twice, at the WKO in Owensboro earlier in the year. We played against in each other in the Swiss rounds, and again in top eight where he defeated me to move on to top four. We had fun then and this time was no different. He’s a great player and definitely fun to play against because while we both take the game seriously, we’re more relaxed and are able to joke with each other and just enjoy the match. We had such a close game in this event, with the game coming down to single digit life totals and who could draw and roll what they needed. Boom Boom is a tough character to contend with and I didn’t purchase my Emma Frost until very late in the game. I don’t know that she would have helped me achieve victory, but she definitely would have slowed my defeat if I’d bought her sooner. In the end, his dice came through and he was able to defeat me for a glorious round two victory!

Record: 0-2-0

Round Three – Bailee R.

I got to play against one of my closest Dice Masters friends in round three. Bailee is strong player and I knew that her Blob could give me some trouble if he scooped up one of my important dice. I also knew Havok could be problematic for me too. I knew I needed to be careful of Avalanche, since I brought Mutation – which would help his ability. We had fun, but our dice would not cooperate with us at all. It didn’t seem like either of us could get anything we wanted or needed. We both struggled against our own dice more than we did against each other. That’s the way it goes sometimes, and because of both our bad luck, it resulted in a tie. Bailee and I always have fun with each other, regardless of dice rolls. She’s such a great person to play with and I was thrilled to see her at the event and just as happy to play against her!

Record: 0-2-1

Round Four – Bye

bye-player-pony

I scored a victory! I had to defeat the bye player for it, and with how my team had been rolling in this event, I thought the bye player might actually defeat me. But I was able to secure my one and only victory in round four!

Record 1-2-1

Final Thoughts

When Jeff, the TO, saw that there were nine players, he offered up an additional top eight prize for the ninth place spot. He also added in additional prizing in the form of boosters, based off of standings. There was an additional top four prize card that players in fifth through ninth place were allowed to roll for. Each player in those placings rolled a D20 and the highest roll won the Shocking Grasp card. This was really awesome of him to do and all the players were super nice and appreciative of the additional prizes. To Jeff, on behalf of all the locals and visitors, thank you for all you do for our community!

Well, I saw my final standing was ninth place out of nine players, but I was not disappointed in myself or the way I handled my team. I did the very best I could with what I had, but it just wasn’t enough. That’s something that I’m totally okay with because I hope for the best and prepare for the worst. I was prepared to be in last place before we were ever handed our draft bags. I’ve said this many times in many of my articles, what really matters is that you have fun! I had a lot of fun and I enjoyed seeing my fellow players from out of town and can’t wait to see them again! Thanks to Mr. Craig (Craig H.) for being so awesome and hooking me up with lots of trades.

We had several players that were planning to attend, but due to unforeseen circumstances, most of them culdn’t make it. I hate that I missed out on seeing some of our friends from out of town and I hope all is well! As for our locals, we’re very thankful that Rusty was able to make the drive up. We’re also extremely grateful to Bailee for being able to make the event before having to go straight to work right after round four. That’s some serious dedication! I hope that all my other locals are finally over whatever struck them so suddenly.

I look forward to our next event and I hope we’re able to host other WKO’s in the future! Thanks to WizKids for selecting my FLGS as a host. I’m not sure you know how much that meant to all of us.

Good luck to everyone that’s attending future WKO’s!

Roll on, Dice Masters!

Greetings Fellow Dice Fans!

 

For this week’s confusing card of the week article, we’re going to take a look at Jervis Tetch: Malice in Wonderland from the DC Batman set.

W Jervis Tetch, Malice in Wonderland

Ruling – Ability

Jervis’s ability is a When Attacks ability. His ability will trigger for each of his dice that attack.

When Jervis attacks, you gain control of a target opposing character die with a purchase cost of four or less. That character die is required to attack, if they’re able, on this same turn.

When a Jervis die attacks, you can target any character die with a purchase cost of four or less, which includes basic Sidekick dice. Basic Sidekick dice are considered level one characters with a purchase cost of zero while they are in the Field Zone.

The targeted die is then moved into the Attack Zone with Jervis to show that both of the dice are attacking.

IMG_5594

When the control of the die ends at the end of turn or when the controlling die is KO’d, you must return the controlled die to the area you took it from. You can use an ability like the Global on Blink – Transmutation (during the Attack Step) to move a Jervis die back to your Field Zone and the controlled die will still be attacking.

If the controlled die would be placed in your Used Pile or Prep Area, it goes to your opponent’s Prep Area instead.

If you control a die that is the same die of a character on your team, the controlled die will reference your opponent’s character card.

Normally, a controlling die cannot attack but because Jervis is required to attack in order to control a die, he is an exception.

Jervis’s ability is not optional. You must take control of a character die with a purchase cost of four or less when you attack with Jervis (if there is a legal target). That die is also assigned to attack, which is not optional.

Miscellaneous Card Information

~ Jervis Tetch is a Shield type character card.
~ He has the Villain affiliation.
~ He has a max dice of four.
~ This card is a Rare and is #99 of 124.

Examples

These examples are for information purposes only, to show what would happen in certain scenarios. I am not suggesting that these examples are the best outcomes for each scenario and each example only features relevant parts of the turn, not the entire turn.

Example One:
Attacking with multiple Jervis dice.

Game State
~ I have two level two Jervis Tetch (2A/1D) dice in the Field Zone.
~ My opponent has a level three Red Hood: Jason Todd (5A/5D) die and a Sidekick die in the Field Zone.
~ The turn is moving into the Attack Step.
(Attack Step – Assign Attackers)
~ I assign both of my Jervis dice to attack, moving both of them into the Attack Zone.
~ Both of their abilities are triggered simultaneously when they attack.
~ The first Jervis die will gain control over my opponent’s Sidekick die, moving it to the Attack Zone on my side.
~ The second Jervis die will gain control over my opponent’s Red Hood die, moving it to the Attack Zone on my side.
(Attack Step – Assign Blockers)
~ My opponent does not have any characters to assign as blockers.
(Attack Step – Actions and Globals)
~ I choose not to use any Actions or Globals. (This would be the moment that I could use the Global on Blink – Transmutation to push my Jervis back to my Field Zone and not lose control over the controlled dice.)
~ My opponent does not use any Globals.
(Attack Step – Assign and Resolve Damage)
~ Since none of the characters were blocked, they will all deal their attack value in combat damage to my opponent’s life total. Red Hood is going to deal 5, each Jervis will deal 2 each, and the Sidekick will deal 1 – for a total of 10 damage.
~ As soon as the character dice damage my opponent, they move Out of Play.
(Clean Up Step)
~ Character dice that were KO’d by combat damage during the Attack Step are now placed in the Prep Area.
~ Characters blocked, but not KO’d are removed from the Attack Zone, but stay in the Field Zone. The Attack Zone is part of the Field Zone, but only attacking and blocking characters can be in the Attack Zone.
~ Dice that are Out of Play will move into the Used Pile. My opponent’s Red Hood and Sidekick die will go to my opponent’s Prep Area instead of the Used Pile.
~ All effects end unless otherwise specified (like a While Active or ‘End of Turn’ ability).
~ All damage is cleared.
~ End of turn abilities will resolve.
~ My turn is now over and my opponent’s turn will begin.

Official Sources

WizKids Official Rules Forum (WORF)
I have a pending question with WORF in regards to the Jervis Tetch cards. There are no official rulings at the time this article was written. I will update with red text when I see an official ruling.

Basic Information

You can find more info about specific Keywords on the WizKids Keywords page.

Turn Order Summary Reference

turn-order

Opinion and Strategy

I really don’t like the wording on any of the Jervis cards. And until there is an official ruling, my ruling is how we will be playing it locally. I wanted to wait for the official ruling before doing a CCW on any Jervis, but I’ve been getting several requests and questions about him. This prompted me to sit down and really pour over rulebooks and WORF posts in an effort to decipher how this obscenely confusing card is supposed to work.

If/when WORF gives us a ruling, I will most definitely update this article, or post a corrected article if need be. I’ve never claimed to be an expert and if you have a different way you think he should be handled, I’m totally up for discussion!

As far as the ability, it can devastating, for sure. He can easily remove parts of that wall to allow for some damage to get through, or take all their characters from the field and smack them with them. I would not use Blink or Distraction Globals because that could hinder your overall goal if your opponent uses those Globals to push their stolen characters back so they get them back.

I think this guy has potential in drafts for sure, but because there isn’t a solid ruling from WORF on him, I’m not planning on testing him in Modern Age or Golden Age.

Opinions on this card? Leave a comment!
Is there a card your confused on?

Is there a combo that seems too good to be true?
Leave me a comment here or message me on Facebook at Dice Dice Kitty and thanks for reading!

Special thanks to The Reserve Pool and WizKids for the use of their sites.

Roll on, Dice Masters!

Greetings Fellow Dice Fans!

 

I’m going to keep it short today. You can find all of the featured matches on my YouTube channel in the July 15, 2017 playlist.

You can even my draft pick video there! This video was streamed live to Facebook from my phone. Sorry about the terrible skinny view on YouTube, but I can’t change that.

I was not drafting to win this event. I was drafting mainly for cards that I need for my collection, as were several other folks. Here is the team I put together from my draft picks.

My Team 71517

I chose Unstable Canister and Cloudkill as my Basic Actions. Unstable Canister was a huge help in all of my games, mainly for its Global. Using the Global helped me get attackers through to hit my opponent’s life total. I was able to get a partial flow with Rip Hunter in one game where I cycled the dice I drew in hopes of pulling my Unstable Canister dice. The primary focus of the team was Red Hood and Cloudkill with a bunch of cheap dudes, but I never got that work for me.

I ended up taking second place, missing first place due to tiebreakers. I had fun, but I think Rip Hunter with Unstable Canister is a really silly way to earn your victories. I wanted to try it for myself just to see how silly it was. While it’s a viable strategy, it really is no fun being on the receiving end. You can try to buy up all of their Canister dice, but in doing so, you put your own strategy in jeopardy – which is how I won my second match. This is not a draft strategy I plan to use in the future because it’s not really my style.

What’s your favorite Batman draft combo?
Have a suggestion for a ‘must-pick’ card?
Leave me a comment here or on Facebook at Dice Dice Kitty!

Thanks for reading and watching and please remember to subscribe, like, and follow my social media pages. I cherish all my fellow Dice Masters and want to stay connected!

Roll on, Dice Masters!

Greetings Fellow Wiz-Fans!

 

Guess what?! We have a third round of WKOs coming this May! You can find the info here and here! For Dice Masters fans, this is huge because WizKids has announced that the format will be a Rainbow Draft! This is the first event of its type for Dice Masters. We’ve always had the Rainbow Draft format and we’ve always had draft side events, but for the main event to be a draft – that’s a first and really awesome!

What’s not awesome is how far and few between the events seem to be right now. The closest one for me is over five hours away. That’s not feasible for me to do in a single day. I can handle a three hour drive, one way, but not five or more. I hope they add more locations for many of those areas lacking a closer location.

It’s still really super awesome that WizKids is officially recognizing Rainbow Draft as a competitive level format with this round of WKOs. This is another huge step in the right direction for the game as a whole.

The prizes for the spring WKOs appear to be the same prizing as the other two rounds of WKOs. I have absolutely no issue with this as this helps players that couldn’t make it to the previous events. It gives those players an opportunity to play for those cards that many of the constructed competitive players already have. I do not like having a tournament season where each event has different prizes. Some players may get overwhelmed if they feel like they have to travel all the different events just to try for different prizes. If someone already has the prizes and they don’t want to go play again, then they don’t have to. If someone already has the prizes and they still want to play, they can because they can trade duplicate prizes. I hope that they don’t alter the prizes for the spring WKOs because I feel like it’s more beneficial to have the same set of prizes for the whole tournament season. We will get a chance to play for different prizes at Nationals, Worlds, and the Origins side events.

Now, for Clix, my limited knowledge of official events is going to show. I’m not sure if they’ve ever done a sealed event as the main event at a WKO before or not. I do know there are sealed side events and that sealed is format in Clix, just like Dice Masters has a sealed format. I think it’s really cool that they’re doing that for Clix this time around. I told Mr. DDK that this makes me want to try a Clix WKO Sealed event – but since there isn’t one close enough, I sadly won’t be able to.

I love that they offer the con exclusives at WKOs too. I know a couple of players that want that cool Spirit of Vengeance Hulk thingy and he’s only $15! I wanted the Turtle Van, but I wasn’t able to get one and now I’m having trouble getting one. I would recommend that you pick up those con exclusives if you’re really want them!

I’m excited about this announcement for the upcoming Spring WKOs, for both Clix and Dice Masters! I hope that this trend continues and WizKids continues to support sealed events as official competitive formats.

Thanks for reading!

Dial it up and roll on!

Greetings Fellow Dice Fans!

 

I have some excellent news for Dice Masters in and around the Dyersburg area. We will be hosting a Prime Event at the Dyersburg Comic and Pop Culture Con on Saturday, March 18, 2017!

We are still putting all the details together, like entry fee, prizing, etc. We do know that registration for the Prime Tournament will open at 10:00 am and the tournament will begin at 11:00 am. We’re thinking of doing side events, like Drafts and/or Ten Pack Sealed events. A Ten Pack Sealed event is where each participant purchases ten booster of any set and builds their team directly from the packs. These side events will fire as soon as the seats are filled. We will be working on the details for these events, including prizing, and I’ll announce all the details in a future article. This is a great opportunity to come and test a Prime team for the upcoming PDC events in April and May.

There will be several artists at the convention, including Deadpool inker and penciller, John Lucas! This is a perfect opportunity to meet him face to face and commission a sketch on those Deadpool sketch variants! The organizer for the convention couldn’t give me specific details on pricing or how long Mr. Lucas would need to complete a sketch. If I can get that information in advance, I will definitely announce it in a future article.

There will cosplay contests, vendors, and even food on location. Ticket prices for the convention are only $10. Entry fees for events are separate. Keep your eye on the convention website for additional information!

Website: http://dyersburgcomiccon.com/

Roll on, Dice Masters!

Greetings Fellow Dice Masters!

 

Yesterday, the PDC (Pro Dice Circuit website and Facebook) announced that they will be adding a Draft Championship format and a new constructed format called Prime Championship. The new Prime format is a constructed format that uses a set rotation.

Quotes are excerpts from the PDC article and applications found here.

Draft Championship Format

The PDC Draft Championships will be familiar, as it is the standard Rainbow Draft that we all know and love! This is a popular format across the Dice Masters Community, and the feedback that we received from players and stores was that everyone wanted a friendly, yet competitive component to it. All BAC’s will be legal for this format, so come prepared with all of your cards, or just bring your trusted two that you always play with!

According to the application link in the article, there will be Draft Kits available for stores to purchase. Please speak with your FLGS before signing them up!

2017 Store Draft Championship Kits Include:
– 1 Custom 2017 Draft Store Championship Playmat
– 10 Double-Sided BAC Color Indicator Cards (2 each for the Top 4, 1 for TO and 1 for Fellowship)
– 10 Custom 6-sided Dice (Extras available at $1/per die)
– 1 Free Entry to a 2017 Draft State Championship

I think a Draft Championship is a really cool idea and I’m really pleased to see the PDC doing this. I hope that WizKids will also add a similar format. Drafting in Dice Masters is a lot of fun, and it’s an ever changing game. No two drafts are exactly alike even if you draft a similar team, you won’t come up against the same teams you did before. Drafting is probably one of my favorite Dice Masters formats.

Prime Championship Format

The second format that the PDC is adding is their version of a constructed rotation, called Prime. We’ve all been anxiously awaiting further word from WizKids on a rotation for official WizKids tournaments, but until then we get a taste of what a rotation could look like on a large scale. This new Prime format is not an official WizKids format. For those that plan to play in WKOs and PDC events, you’ll need to test two teams! We are planning to alternate formats at our FLGS to accommodate both formats.

The PDC Prime Championships will focus on constructed play with the newest released sets, similar to the “Modern” format that is found in other CCG’s. For the first year of this format, all sets from World’s Finest forward will be legal including all OP, Team Packs and starters that were released with or after World’s Finest (Alt-Arts and Alt-Art OP’s rotate out with their original card). As additional sets are released, they will become legal for Prime play. Sets will be rotated out annually so that the format stays fresh, engaging, and open to new and seasoned players alike.

I have seen several players speculate about the Alt-Art cards and their legality in a potential WizKids rotation. I think that WizKids is reprinting certain cards, like Focus Power in the Archers OP Kit, so that players can have access to those cards in a rotation format. However, I have no issue or complaint with the PDC for excluding those reprinted cards. If WizKids keeps the reprinted cards in their rotation format, that will give us a different rotation format with different options for play.

The application link for the Prime Store Championship shows what the Prime Kit will contain. It’s very similar to the Draft Kit, except for the playmat wording and the Championship entry. Remember to talk to your FLGS before signing them up!

2017 PDC Prime Store Championship Kits Include:
– 1 Custom 2017 Prime Store Championship Playmat
– 10 Double-Sided BAC Color Indicator Cards (2 each for the Top 4, 1 for TO and 1 for Fellowship)
– 10 Custom 6-sided Dice (Extras available at $1/per die)
– 1 Free Entry to a 2017 Prime State Championship

The dates for the events will vary depending on venue. The date ranges are:

Draft Championships
February 20, 2017 to March 19, 2017

Prime Championships
April 1, 2017 to May 7, 2017

So how does someone prepare and build for an event that’s so very different from an unlimited format?

If I don’t already have an idea of what I want my team to be centered around, I usually start with a win condition, typically using a character ability. I then try to add utility characters to help move the team along to my win condition, and lastly I choose my Basic Action Cards. I usually choose my Basic Actions Cards last because there are several that are practically staples. Most of those Basic Actions are from sets prior to World’s Finest, so for this new Prime format, the first thing I want to do is familiarize myself with which Basic Actions are available. None of the BACs in the currently allowed OP Kits are legal in Prime. Here is a list of the BACs that are currently legal in Prime (which will change between now and April):

World’s Finest BACs

 

Civil War BACs

 

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Set One) BACs

 

After I’ve familiarized myself with the current list of Prime-Legal BACs, I’ll move into the Character and Non-Basic Action Cards. From there, it’s just like building a regular team. The only difference will be which cards are available. As you’re building, remember that there are key staple cards that will not be available like PXG, Red Dragon, and Blue-Eyes. The Prime format eliminates the use of any Yu-Gi-Oh! or Dungeons and Dragons cards. This is probably the hardest adjustment to make. I’ve already run into that issue where I instinctively want to reach for a D&D card or YGO card and then remember that I can’t use those cards. Building a team without the usual staple cards will be a challenge for all of us veteran-competitive players. I can’t wait to start working on a Prime team for April!

There are still sets and starters that will be added into the Prime format. I would definitely suggest players begin familiarizing themselves with all the current Prime-Legal cards and maybe even practice team building before April.

Players should keep in mind that this is not an official WizKids announcement. For local play, TOs should continue to do what works for their scene. Talk to the players about the PDC’s Prime format and gauge their level of interest. Try not to alienate players that may not be able to afford to purchase newer starters for BACs. If someone wants to play in local Prime events but doesn’t have the appropriate BACs, they should ask their fellow players and see if someone would be kind enough to loan them some for the event. With the way WizKids has planned starter releases, most players will be able to keep up with the starters now. I think that was a great move on the part of WizKids, and it’s helping them set up for their own rotation.

I’m really excited to see how this new format changes up the competitive scene because while many of us are prepping for WKOs, we’ll also be prepping for Prime events. This will definitely open up more topics of conversation at WKOs and even local events. Our locals are already buzzing about this and we will be scheduling a mix of Prime and Unlimited events beginning in January 2017.

What do you and your locals think of the new PDC Championship formats?
What do you think the cutoff for a WizKids rotation should be?
Should WizKids rotate reprints with the originals?

Roll on, Dice Masters!

Greetings Fellow Dice Fans!

 

We played a limited event this past Saturday and this type of format is becoming a local favorite. Each player pays a $10.00 entry fee and they are allowed to choose ten boosters from any set that the store has in stock. Players can mix and match if they choose, but the best strategy is usually to choose ten from the same set. We had Battle for Faerûn, World’s Finest, Green Arrow and The Flash, and Deadpool in stock.

My Team

my-team-12-10-16

You can find my team here, on DM Retrobox.

I chose all ten packs from Deadpool. When I opened my packs, the cards I saw that stood out were several Deadpool affiliated characters, and one Lady Bullseye. I was definitely hoping for at least two of her dice, but I only pulled one, so I had to figure out something else. I volunteered to run the store that night so that the owner could spend some time with his family at a Christmas party. When you’re working and trying to build a team, you don’t always get the same amount of time as others to build. I threw a bunch of dudes together and hoped for the best! I picked all the Deadpool folks – without reading them, Free Chimichangas because it gives a defense boost and Deadly, Multiple Man because he has Swarm and I had two dice for him, and Lady Bullseye because – why not? Knowing my time was extremely limited on building, I grabbed Hulk Out and Resurrection for my two Basic Actions. I knew I couldn’t go wrong with a little ramp and Hulk Out to go with Lady Bullseye isn’t a bad idea.

Round One

round-1-12-10-16

My round one opponent had decided to build from the D&D stock. I loved having both Resurrection Globals to use, and that definitely helped me. I was not excited to see that Magic Helmet on my opponent’s team. It was a great counter piece to my Dogpool. I realized I had made a mistake when building my team by adding Outlaw. I only had one die for her, which made her a totally useless character. I could always use her for fodder, but her ability was bunk for me. I also made a huge mistake during this match. I was so focused on buying all of my Deadpool characters (except for Outlaw), that I neglected to buy any of my Hulk Out dice. This gave my opponent an opportunity to use his Big Entrance die and the three energy he rolled to buy all three of my Hulk Out dice at once. I didn’t think I was going to be able to pull off a victory in this match when he started fielding big characters, like his Minotaur, but some well placed blockers and well timed attacks left him practically defenseless. My characters were beefy on defense and heavy on attack stats, helping me find a path to victory. It was a glorious game of agonizing over when to attack and how to block. These are the games that make you feel good, regardless of who won and who lost.

Record after Round One: 1-0-0

Round Two

round-2-12-10-16

I found myself sitting across the table from Mr. DDK in round two. I always have the hardest time defeating him in any game, constructed or otherwise. I was fortunate though, that he missed my Resurrection Global for a turn or two because he didn’t notice it, which I feel slowed him down a little. He hit me pretty hard with a level three Angel Dust, but I blocked most of his other attackers. Letting Angel Dust through was a good choice because she went to the Used Pile and she had to cycle back through his bag. I only needed my Kidpool this game, because my opponent brought that glorious Anger Issues Global. Add a Hulk Out or two into that mix and it was game over for Mr. DDK. I considered myself very lucky that some of his dice didn’t roll for him and most of mine rolled on the side I needed or a side that I could use. He did some major damage though, so it wasn’t a cake walk. I did feel like I could lose the game on any turn if he rolled what he needed. That’s the nature of the game though. It was still a fun match with some back and forth and attacking/blocking strategy.

Record after Round Two: 2-0-0

Round Three

round-3-12-10-16

I apologize for the picture. I totally forgot to snap a picture before we packed up, but he was kind enough to unpack his stuff before he left so that I could at least get a pick of his cards. It was totally my fault that I didn’t get the picture I wanted and I have to thank my opponent again for doing this for me.

This game was incredible. I was fielding characters left and right, and he was constantly attacking me with his Purple Worm. It was pretty intense for several turns, because one misplaced blocker could have put either of us in jeopardy. I took a chance on one of my last turns and attacked when he had several characters. I knew he couldn’t clear my field completely so I’d have some blockers left if he rolled his characters back up. My two Deadly Deadpool dice were very useful this entire match, and even more on this particular attack. I was left with several character dice after the combat was done and my opponent was rolling all of those characters I KO’d on his turn. I was hoping only one or two would roll. He rolled his dice and none were characters. He rerolled the character dice, and luck was on my side – they all came up energy! I will not turn down a victory, but I do not like winning when my opponent has no options and can’t defend themselves – even if it’s because of a bad roll. But aside from how the game ended, the rest of the game was tons of fun. I’m very happy my opponent came to play and he ended up in third place for the event.

Record after Round Three: 3-0-0
Final Standing: 1st

Final Thoughts

We only used ten packs for our first sealed event a while back, and part of me thought that ten packs wasn’t enough. After playing this format a second time with only ten packs, I think ten is probably going to be the magic number. Some players will end up pulling great cards that have wonderful synergy together, and some won’t pull anything that works together at all. It’s not what you pull, but how you use it – with a bit of luck. I definitely had some luck on my side for this event. My team did not have anything that actually worked together for a super cool effect. Lady Deadpool and Kidpool were about all I had, and Lady Deadpool’s ability only made her cheaper to buy – nothing else after you had her. Kidpool worked with any of my Deadpool characters. You don’t have to have a team that functions like a constructed team in an event like this. Everyone is working with what they’ve pulled so everyone is kinda on the same page. Even pulling a Super Rare doesn’t guarantee you win – I had one rare (Dogpool) and I didn’t use his ability a single time. The rest of my team was common and uncommon, and I just threw everything together without really reading most of the cards. In my opinion, the Deadpool set is really good for limited events like sealed and drafts. Everyone is so used to drafting with sets that have cards with crazy good Globals or they play way too much constructed, that they don’t see how much fun this set is. I’m so glad I picked Deadpool to use in the sealed and I would totally do it again.

What are some changes you’d make without changing the spirit of the team?
Have a build you like better?
Leave me a comment here or on Facebook at Dice Dice Kitty and thanks for reading!

Roll on, Dice Masters!

Greetings Fellow Dice Fans!

 

I hope you all have had a wonderful release week/weekend. I know we have had a blast! We typically do a draft on the Saturday after a new set releases to celebrate. While I was looking through the cards in our feed on release day, I realized how much of a slug-fest this set was going to be in draft. I was not wrong! This set has one Global ability and it’s on Motorcycle: Vroom!, which is like a Blink or Distraction Global with an added condition. One of the most important things about drafting this set is to be very careful when picking your Basic Actions!

We had a total of eleven players for our draft, so we split into two pods to draft (one pod of six, one pod of five).

draft-1

After drafting – the battles began! I always love seeing these pictures with all the playmats down the tables! We even had players at the very back table too.

draft-2

My Team

my-team

Characters
Lady Bullseye: Attack on Two Fronts
Agent Carter: Behind Enemy Lines
Multiple Man: Jamie Madrox
Miguel O’Hara: Spider-Man 2099
Negasonic Teenage Warhead: Bored in School
Free Chimichangas: Best Things in Life
Satchel of Unlimited Weaponry: Sword
M.O.D.O.K.: Twisted Mind

Basic Actions
Resurrection
Big Entrance

Event

So… It was very clear when I started playing my first of four rounds, that I had made a huge mistake with my Basic Action Cards. Lady Bullseye was such a great character, but I needed Overcrush from a Hulk Out or direct damage from Magic Missile – desperately. I totally didn’t need Big Entrance or Resurrection and I’m not sure why I picked them. But that’s why your Basic Action choices are so important! I could have possibly won a game or two if I’d have brought those Hulk Out and/or Magic Missile. I ended up going 1-3-0, my only win being the bye. Even though I had a poor record for the night, I still had tons of fun!

i-played-a-modok

The pod I was running for the drafting portion had mostly high cost characters in it. I actually purposely drafted M.O.D.O.K. cards, added him to my team, and even fielded him a few times. I have a picture as proof!

all-the-l-bullseye-and-chimis

In one of my games, the turn before I was dealt lethal damage, I had all of my Lady Bullseye and Free Chimichanga dice in my Used Pile. The two Big Entrance dice (that I was desperately wishing were Hulk Out dice instead) helped me buy two of those Chimichanga dice. I didn’t take my own advice about Lady Bullseye – lesson learned!

Even though I ended the night with a bye win and three losses, I still got a booster pack prize. We usually give out OP Kit prizes each week, whether we draft or not, but the FLGS is really generous with their additional prizing for drafts. So someone like me, that finished in last place, almost always leaves with at least one booster pack prize.

We also gave away a Deadpool gravity feed from our Thanksgiving Food Drive Raffle. One of our players that has never purchased a sealed feed, and only purchased a single raffle ticket, won the feed! Congratulations again to Craig! He pulled some decent Super Rares too – Wolverine Lord of Vampires: The X-Vampires Will Feed and Lady Deadpool: Earth-3010.

I can’t wait to try different sealed formats with this set! I really like this set a lot, especially for drafting. I think I like this set more than War of Light to draft with, and it’s one of my favorites!

How does this set rank as a draft set for you?
What are some of your favorite draft strategies for this set?
Leave me a comment here or on Facebook at Dice Dice Kitty, and thanks so much for reading!

Roll on, Dice Masters!